Day 7 (Monday, 28^th)

Osomo Volcano across Lake Llanqhehue from Puerto Varas	Puerto Varas lake front	Baird's Sandpiper

Black-crowned Night Heron	Brown-hooded Gull	Yellow-billed Pintail

Chilean Swallow	Dark-bellied Cinclodes	Snowy Egret

Southern Lapwing	Tufted Tit Tyrant	Turkey Vulture

We stayed atPuerto Varas for three nights, with the main target being Chiloe and the Penguin colony at Puñihuil Cove. The small town is located on the shore of Lake Llanquihue, which, when in good weather with blue sky, can be seen to be backed by 2 impressive volcanos and the Andes. There don’t seem to be huge birding opportunities within the town, apart from a small park to the North (almost next to the Cabanas del Lago hotel), which holds one or two interesting species such as Tufted Tit-tyrant and Green-backed Firecrown. Black-faced Ibis is hard to miss, and Dark-bellied Cinclodes regular along the lake shore front.
 

From PuertoVaras, it takes only an hour in the car to reach the ferry terminal to Chiloe. These seem to be very frequent, and take buses and lorries as well as cars. Entry on to the ferry was simplicity itself, and despite being only a half an hour journey, standing on the top platform is very rewarding. We had fairly calm water and decent weather when we crossed, making the sea-watch very pleasurable. A diving Imperial Shag next to the terminal heralded our departure, and it took only minutes to realise that there is a continuous passage of Sooty Shearwaters passing (however, 3 Pink-footed Shearwaters were picked out on the return). They were examined as best as could be done for other species, but no joy. Biggest scoop was half way over, when a Black-browed Albatross sailed close by. As we neared the Chiloe terminal, Franklin’s Gulls and South American Terns became obvious, and a single Red-legged Cormorant flew by. The shore of the terminal seemed to hold only Black-necked Swans initially, but a pair of Fuegian Steamer Ducks were on shore, along with good numbers of Hudsonian Godwits and a few Whimbrel.

The ultimate destination was Puñihuil Cove, where the boats for the Penguin Colony were located.  We stopped briefly at a couple of open marshes on the way. One small one either side of the road held good numbers of Greater & Lesser Yellowlegs, as well as a few Yellow-billed Teal. Larger marshes seemed to have the same mix in smaller numbers. The cove itself is rather attractive, with a beach facing a number of small close in offshore islands. The locals have cottoned on to the lucrative nature of Penguin watchers, and have a good visitor system going on. The boats hold around 30 people and the total tour lasts 30-40 minutes. Getting on to the boat, which is moored just about 20 metres off shore, is by a small platform on wheels – wonderfully archaic but it works! The boat skirts around a couple of the small islands and gets quite close to some open aspects where the Penguins can be seen fairly close to (no landing here – all is done from the boat). The vast majority are Magellanic, many with fairly well grown young but the seaward face of one of the islands also has a few Humboldt Penguins. The few pairs of Kelp Gulls present are pretty obvious, but a bit of searching also found Blackish Oystercatcher and small numbers of the rather smart Red-legged Cormorants (slightly larger numbers of Neotropic were nearby). On our return to the shore, a Peruvian Pelican flew in and landed close to on the sea, and Dark-bellied Cinclodes were obvious along the beach and rocks.

Punahuil Cove	Boat visiting penguin colony

Black-browed Albatross	Blackish Oystercatcher	Franklin's Gull

Male Fuegian Steamer Duck	Female Fuegian Steamer Duck	Humboldt Penguin

Kelp Goose	Imperial Shag	Kelp Gull

Magellanic Penguin	Peruvian Pelican	Yellow-billed Duck

Red-legged Cormorant	Sooty Shearwater	Pink-footed Shearwater